Malolotja Game Park, Swaziland

Written by Brian on April 2

During the Easter holiday Shari and I partook in an annual Peace Corps Volunteer tradition, Humanolotja (formerly a guys-only trip known as Manolotja). This is a hiking and camping trip to the potholes (gorge and waterfall) in Malolotja. Twelve of us took off on a hike, pitched tents, made big fires, ate, talked, swam, played games, and returned, assuredly kilograms lighter. This was by far the most rugged and remote camping/hiking experience we have had, but is a memory we will treasure from our Swaziland adventures.

Where we stayed: Campsite 12, 8 plus kilometers from the Malolotja Game Park entrance, somewhere near the South Africa border. Shari and I slept in our orange, 2 person tent. Our group’s campsite was in the gorge right on the banks of a river, and we definitely recommend this spot to any other Swaziland campers. We couldn’t have asked for easier access to fresh water (which of course still had to iodized and filtered), a more beautiful view, or easier access to the waterfall and swimming hole (a mere 10 minute hike away).

What we did: We began by hiking over 8 kilometers (that’s about 5 miles for all you on the standard system) downhill to the gorge. Upon entering the park we saw many gemsbok grazing, which gave us the opportunity to see the animal our snack of biltong (or jerky) was made from. Further along we stopped to take in the majestic scenery of the mountains and gorge as we continued our descent into the wild. A little ways through we spotted a zebra on a hill in the distance. This would be the last game we would see until our return back to base where the gemsbok roam. Unfortunately, we were unable to locate the aardswolf that roams the park, despite valiant tracking efforts from members of our team.

Even though a few of the PCV’s had been to the potholes before, we were now coming at an earlier time in fall, when vegetation is still high and thick. Because of this, much of our hike was on an overgrown path. We made it to the river near our campsite before losing the path completely. Our fearless hike leaders (including me) then went in circles through a bog, cutting through the forest of bamboo, and getting our feet wet and muddy, until at last, we found our way. We pitched tent, ate, and hit the ground for some shut eye after our long and arduous four and a half hour hike down.

The next day we awoke and went downstream to the waterfall where we scaled the rocks to our viewing point, some (Shari) scaled even steeper rocks down to the pothole where it was ripe for swimming. Only one of our group made the leap of faith from the top of the waterfall into the pool below, though he slipped at the last second and fell ungracefully the rest of the way down (amid screams by terrified onlookers).

While at the waterfall, our group spotted other humans (!) who came to enjoy the gorge and waterfall. They were three Europeans attending high school at a prestigious international school here in Swaziland. While one of the girls was attempting to cross the small river above the waterfall to the other side where the jumping point was, she got washed away, and we all watched in horror as she slid down the rock face towards the falls. At this point it was like watching in slow motion, while at the same time happening too fast for any of us to react. As she disappeared over the falls, our minds began racing of what we would need to do to help this girl if she was injured. As we came to the cliff overlook we saw her friend clapping as she swam toward the shore. We knew she was okay.

When we returned to the campsite that night our single goal was to collect copious amounts of firewood to set off a big blaze in the dark. We then created a giant torch to light the 5 foot high logs we stacked on the river. After sundown we lit up the sky, and the light grew on the rock face towards the heavens. We played the card game ‘Mafia’ Swazi style (featuring the Illuminati), and also added our own flare by playing with Batman and The Matrix themes. The following day, we began our treacherous climb back out due to the weather. This 8 kilometer hike uphill was not for beginners, as we and our newbies and city folk discovered. But with cool weather, people who stopped in cars to take our packs up to the top, people who took our slowest climber back, and eventually the zipline vehicle that took us the last kilometer to the lodge, the hike was a tad bit easier. Although I must say Shari and another friend made the hike all the way back to the lodge with their packs (in less time than the downhill hike had taken), and I of course refused to give up my pack to make things easier, until catching a ride that last bit.