One Year Later

Today, Brian and I mailed a Christmas package to our beloved host family in Swaziland. Christmas is two months away, and we are pretty sure the package will still arrive late. Still, the toys and trinkets are symbols of our unchanging affection for them and their country, and we were excited to send it. And then, it hit me: next month marks our one year home-iversary. 

Brian and I left Swaziland 15 months ago, and after an epic backpacking journey across Europe, we returned to America nearly one year ago.

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I have avoided writing about my ‘coming home’ experience for NEARLY A YEAR. Clearly, I am not ready to reflect on what my Peace Corps service and travels meant, or even to admit that this adventure is over. And yet, a year has passed.

Life post-Peace Corps has turned out exactly as we had hoped: we traveled for months, spent the Christmas holiday and beginning of the new year reunited with our American family, and then landed great jobs doing meaningful work in our current city of choice, Washington, DC. Brian and I like our new city, enjoy our jobs, and are slowly making friends and a life for ourselves here. We have enjoyed new travels around our own country (photos to come) and have plans for more international trips. By all accounts, we are doing well. 

Even so, America still seems busy, large, and complicated. Every single day, a hundred things remind me of life in Swaziland and of our epic travels. Keeping in close touch with so many of our Swazi friends and family, as well as couch surfing hosts from around the world, doesn’t make closing a chapter of your life very easy.

When I returned to America, I very pragmatically gave myself one year to re-adjust before I was required to ‘be normal’ again. Today, I realized normal may never come.

Life in Swaziland and our travel experiences influence every moment of who I am. I can’t process this because I am still in it. The adventure didn’t stop when we left Swaziland, it didn’t stop when we returned to America, and it didn’t stop when we got ‘grown up’ jobs again or started feeling at home in DC. And now, after an hour of staring at my laptop screen, forcing myself to think through my emotions, I realize I am OK with that.

Happy almost home-iversary to us, and likely-late Merry Christmas to our Swazi family. The adventure continues, and I would be bored with ‘normal’ anyway.

Incredible Iceland

When wonderful Brian bought our tickets home, he planned a two-day stopover in Iceland for us. We weren’t sure exactly what we would do there, but we managed to pack in the essential Iceland experience in just 48 hours!

First off: we rented a car, and Brian got to learn to drive on icy roads with strong snowy winds. That was an adventure for both of us. 

We spent one day driving to Geysir (the one all other geysers get their name from) and Gullfoss (a waterfall). As soon as we turned off the highway, the ice started. Within fifteen minutes of driving, we passed two cars who had slipped off the road and crashed. But Brian is an excellent driver, and we slowly crept onwards.

The Geysir (which doesn’t spout regularly nowadays) and its neighbor Strokkur (who spouted every few minutes) were incredible, especially since we arrived as sunset was beginning (at 3pm). The reds and oranges in the sky, the deep blue water, the brilliant white snow, and the hot steam created an epic sunset.

We finally pulled ourselves away to visit Gullfoss, a waterfall that apparently rivals Niagara for volume. The ice canyon it pummeled down was vast, and that blue water pounding over the falls was deafening, as was the icy wind that screamed through the canyon. We couldn’t stay long because of the cold, but even without the wind the scene would have been breathtaking.

That night, our Icelandic host made us traditional salted cod, pickled herring, and traditional breads and vegetables. After a delicious meal, a fellow Couch Surfing guest went out for a smoke and just happened to notice Northern Lights in the night sky. We ran out into the snow in our pjs and boots, staring in awe at the green streaks dancing through the sky. Iceland, you are stealing my heart!

And then, on our second and final day in Iceland, we went to the Blue Lagoon. This is touristy, but amazing. Brian and I soaked in the steamy water, plastered on silica and algae masks, drank smoothies in the water, used the steam bath and the sauna, visited the massaging waterfall and the cave, and relaxed in the lounge with views over the lagoon. It was a relaxing day, and a wonderful place for us to reflect on just how incredible our adventures have been. And with that, we headed to the airport and to home, after two and a half years away.

America, get ready for us!

One last visit to Paris

It is a brilliant idea to fly out of Paris, especially if that is the cheapest flight, it is Christmas time, and you have amazing Parisian Couch Surfing hosts.

We had one day back in France, and we packed it full. We spent the morning in nearby Epernay, the champagne capital, visiting champagne houses and toasting to our future. In the afternoon we walked from Notre Dam along Avenue des Champs-Elysees (past the Louvre, obelisk, Christmas market, ferris wheel, and Arc de Triumph) all the way to the Eiffel Tower. The street lights and Christmas lights twinkled on as we walked, and by the time we reached the tower it was perfectly dark and beautiful. We went for a late dinner with our hosts and had one last delicious French meal, including my first foie gras.

What a perfect second-to-last chapter of our adventure.

All Around Switzerland (Zurich, Bern, Lucerne, Interlaken, Zermatt, and Geneva)

At Jungfraujoch

Brian and I spent one very full week in Switzerland. We started out in Zurich after an overnight train and explored the pretty (but nondescript) old town for a morning, then spent an afternoon in Bern. I loved the idea of bears as a city mascot, but unfortunately the Bern bears were hibernating and did not come out to say hello. Even so, Bern was beautiful, full of old buildings with crooked tile roofs. And to top it off, the city was celebrating the first week of Advent by giving out cookies, cakes and hot drinks on the main shopping streets – what a fun way to spent the afternoon!

Wooden bridge in Lucerne

In Lucerne we took a ferry boat ride (free with our Eurail pass) and walked around the old town area, including the charming wooden bridges and ancient stone wall. It was foggy our entire stay, so we will have to go back someday to see the mountains surrounding this lovely lakeside town.

In Interlaken we did a little hiking, walked along the lake, and went to the highest train station in Europe at Jungfraujoch. This trip into the Alpine heights was one of my favorite activities of our entire trip – it was freezing, but the views were unbeatable. We went underground to the Ice Palace chiseled out of glacial ice, saw the highest altitude karst cave in Europe, and went outside to brave the elements. When we first stepped outside, we couldn’t see a thing through the heavy mist surrounding us. But suddenly, the mist cleared and we could see for miles over mountain peaks and snow-filled valleys, topped by an incredibly blue sky. It was beautiful.

Skiing in Zermatt

Brian and I missed open ski season by a week (and several feet of snow, which hasn’t appeared yet), but made a day trip to Zermatt because they have year-round skiing. We rented our ski equipment and bravely headed up the mountain, hoping our two skiing experiences as adults had prepared us for the Alps. They hadn’t. The ‘easy’ slopes were much more challenging than anything we had done before, and I spent half my time careening wildly down the slopes and the other half snapping my skis back on after a tumble. Even so, sloppy skiing in the Alps with views of the Matterhorn will be one of my favorite memories of this entire trip. Whatan incredible day!

Our last stop in Switzerland was in Geneva. Our Couch Surfing host worked at CERN and took us on a tour – we even got to see a CERN experiment control room with a big red button, ‘in case a black hole starts,’ our host said. We also went ice skating, on another ferry boat ride (another free Eurail perk), to the United Nations building, and walking around the old town. Geneva was nice, but could not compare to our experiences in the Alps!

Christmas Markets in Cologne, Germany

Neumarkt

 When we planned to stop in Cologne to see the Christkindl Markt, we had no idea there were actually a dozen or so markets spread throughout the city. Luckily, we had a Couch Surfing host who was willing to walk the whole city so we could see at least half of them, as well as the immense Dom cathedral and its’ neighboring picturesque bridge.

Each market had distinct decorations, but all were cute, full of handicrafts and good things to eat, and intolerably crowded. Still, we had a blast: squeezing through the crowds, scouting  Christmas presents for family members, and eating bratwurst (sausages) and sipping gluhwein (hot mulled wine) to stay warm. Christmas markets are considered an essential German experience, and I would love to go again…on a weekday when everyone else is at work.

The most crowded market – right by the beautiful cathedral and the main train station 

Brussels, Brugge and Antwerp, Belgium

Brian’s favorite part of Belgium was definitely the chocolate!

Upon hearing we planned to visit Brussels, more than one European has asked “But why?” And now having been there, I think that is silly: Brussels had just as much to offer as other capital cities. We strolled the beautiful Grand Place plaza, saw the iconic Mannekin Pis statue (literally, a statue of a chubby kid taking a leak), and strolled the upscale Galeries Hubert, the first covered shopping arcade in Europe. We went by the royal palace, climbed to the top of the Cinquentaire museums for panoramic views of the city, and visited the giant Atomium building, a cool atom-shaped structure built for the 1958 World Fair. Best of all, we sampled the wares at every single chocolate shop and ate hot waffles every afternoon – Brian was in heaven!

We did day trips to both Brugge and Antwerp. After hearing glowing reviews of the diamond and fashion districts in Antwerp, we were underwhelmed. Surprisingly, the renowned architecture of the Antwerp train station was probably my favorite part of the city.

Brugge was charming and, thanks to our off-season visit, mostly empty of day trippers. The Brouwerij De Halve Maan (a brewery) had a cozy pub with a roaring fire, and the Markt already had a small Christmas market and ice skating rink open. We also strolled by the Belfort, the Burg, and the Begijnhof (houses built to house religious widows and single women).

My favorite Brussels memory will be preparing Thanksgiving dinner for our two Couch Surfing hosts. The only turkey we could find was deli-sliced, so we served that on a plate alongside a small ham and some traditional sides. Our hosts were delighted to participate in such an American holiday and stuffed themselves like true Americans.

Introducing some European friends to American Thanksgiving!

 

Amsterdam, The Netherlands

On a bicycle ride through northern Amsterdam, complete with blue skies and green grass in late November!

When we started our four month journey across Western Europe, I was worried that by the end I would be burnt out, unable to appreciate new sights and cities. More than three months into our travels, Amsterdam officially proved that I can still be infatuated with new places. Our Couch Surfing host lent us bicycles, and we spent our first evening in the city cycling and strolling. For HOURS. And it was WONDERFUL. What a beautiful city!

Amsterdam is a beautiful city!

We cycled through Rembrandt and Vondel parks, then stumbled on a packed ice skating rink in the Museum Quarter. We were side-tracked there for a bit (and took the obligatory photo with the enormous I Amsterdam block letters), then continued on. We found a friendly-looking canal space and triple-locked our bikes, as bike theft is rampant in cycle-happy Netherlands. And then we started walking, enjoying the circuitous canal walkways, the Christmas decorations, and the Christmas-ready window displays. We also did a circuit through the red light district, but similar to Hamburg’s Reeperbahn, we found it a little depressing and didn’t stay long.

Bright and early the next day, we visited the famous secret annex where Anne Frank and her family hid for two years. After a heavy morning learning more about the atrocities of World War II, we decided to spend the afternoon on something light-hearted. We went first to the quaint Brouwerij ‘t IJ, a brewery that sits under a traditional windmill, and sampled their fleet of beers. And we ended our day at the Heineken Experience, a multimedia attraction (they even have a ride) that is so interactive it borders on overwhelming.

On our last day, our Couch Surfing host took us on a bicycle tour through the city. We stopped at a local flea market and breakfasted on pickled herring sandwiches and silver dollar-sized Dutch pancakes. We cycled to north Amsterdam, where city streets suddenly gave way to quiet canal-sides, bordered on one side by neatly-kept houses and on the other by herds of sheep and cows. The unusually warm fall meant that everything was still bright green, even in late November. We had lunch in an old shipyard in a converted shipping container, then caught the ferry back across the river into central Amsterdam. There is literally water EVERYWHERE in the Netherlands, and after two years in a drought-prone country, I couldn’t get enough of it.

Hamburg, Germany

A foggy day in Hamburg

Many tourists seem to label Hamburg as boring, but every German we met insisted that the second largest city in Germany (behind Berlin) also had plenty to offer. We have to agree with them – our short stop in Hamburg was full and interesting. Even though the entire city was immersed in thick fog, we walked all through the city center, seeing churches, the port, and the immense urban renewal project called Hafencity.

After dark, we took a ferry tour around the harbor, enjoying the creepy mist hanging over each wooden dock. Our host took us for dinner in the alternative Schanzenviertel area, popular for used record stores, concerts, and political rallies. We ended the night in the Reeperbahn, Hamburg’s red light district, where our host taught us to spot Hamburg prostitutes and took us to a traditional pub. Red light districts are not our thing (and actually make us a little sad), so after an hour or two of wandering, we headed back into a cheerier part of town.

Waiting for our ferry boat cruise in the mist

Oslo and Bergen, Norway

On a fjord tour near Bergen

I must start by saying that train rides in Norway allow for the most beautiful views in perhaps the entire world, particularly near Bergen. Endless pine forests filled with lush green moss and reflective bogs slipped by outside my window, and at least half of the homes were painted bright red with white trim, like a children’s book barn. And in mountain villages near Bergen, every tree and fence post was completely white from a thick layer of snow. Some of the lakes were already frozen over! To this Florida kid, this looked just like a Winter Wonderland, but I was also relieved when we dipped back out of the mountains into non-snowy landscape in Bergen.

At the Oslo Opera House

I found another favorite European building: the Oslo Opera House. Built to resemble a floating iceberg, the building is startlingly white with large hunks of marble jutting out at odd angles. Visitors are free to climb the slanting walls up to the roof for views across the fjord. It is somehow playful and austere all at once.

In Oslo, we spent some time exploring the walls of Akershus Slott and Festning (a fortress and castle), then went strolling through the royal palace’s gardens. We spent our last hour or so of daylight in the Vigelandsparken, a park which contains about 200 sculptures by Norwegian artist Gustav Vigeland. After dark (aka 4pm) we went to the National Gallery and saw Edvard Munch’s famous work The Scream, as well as works by dozens of other Norwegian artists I had never heard of.

View of the fjord from our boat

In Bergen, a small town on the North Sea, we had the privilege of attending a ‘post-christening, please help us eat all of this cake’ party with our Couch Surfing host. We tried several traditional Norwegian cakes, played with Norwegian babies, and chatted with Norwegian adults. We also bar-hopped with our host and her friend across town. Brian and I split three small beers, and those three beers cost us FIFTY DOLLARS. Norway, and especially drinking in Norway, really is as expensive as they say.

The highlight of our time in Bergen was our fjord tour. A fjord is the name for a body of ocean water that reaches into the mainland, and in the past the accompanying glacial ice cut deep canyons in the landscape. We followed the popular ‘Norway in a Nutshell’ route, which includes train rides, bus rides, and a ferry ride through spectacular scenery. On the ferry, we spotted porpoises swimming near tiny villages that can only be reached by boat. The deepest part of the fjord was 1,200 meters deep – picture the Grand Canyon, but filled with perfectly still water that exactly mirrors the snow-capped cliffs above it. Absolutely enchanting.

Stockholm, Sweden

Exploring Durgarden Island

Before planning this trip, I had no idea Stockholm is built on 14 different islands. The city is as watery as Venice! We spent the bulk of our touristing time in the old town area of Gamla Stan and on Durgarden, a large park island smack dab in the middle of the city. Our only cultural stops were the Nobel Museum, where we spent several hours learning about people far smarter and braver than us, and the Kungliga Slottet (royal palace), which is disappointingly square and plain.

My favorite day was spent simply wandering. Our favorite finds were two small theme parks on Durgarden island (including a theme park of ‘Sweden in miniature’ which was somehow not intriguing enough to pay about $15 USD to investigate) and a deer wandering through the park.

At the close of the day, we meandered to the ice skating rink. The area is really open for the Christmas season, but there were already enough skaters out to entertain us, plus enough excess ‘snow’ for me to make a snowman, stomp around, and in general make a Florida-fool of myself. The light from a cloud-blocked sun faded by 3:30pm, the Christmas lights came on, and we sipped coffee and watched the skaters. What a perfect city.

Enjoying the ice skating rink after sunset (about 4pm)